Sometimes vehicle owners don’t understand the importance of engine oil and only look at price when they need their oil changed. I am sure we have all come across a customer who has purchased or worse yet leased a vehicle that they really can’t afford. This vehicle owner is always looking for a bargain that in the long run will get them into trouble.
Whenever somebody wants us to apply our expertise to give them peace of mind, it would be nice if we were able to offer a 100 percent guarantee, but no matter how good we think we are, time and chance can always get the upper hand.
Gathering data and sorting it out requires a sharp-minded clear thinker, and everybody who’s in the know will agree that a really good troubleshooter in our field needs to be just a bit smarter than the average bear on a number of levels.
The MIL has been on for some time now on my 1999 Ford Ranger. The 3.0 liter V6 bucks and runs horribly for the first few minutes of operation, then settles down and runs fine until the next overnight soak.
I encountered a stubborn apparition-infested 1998 Ford Explorer, 4x2, 5.0L. This vehicle, which had an automatic transmission, California emission, “believed” it was a four-wheel drive, but it had a two-wheel drive powertrain!
Every so often some of the vehicle problems we encounter can seem sort of paranormal. Even though we keep telling ourselves that there must be some logical explanation to what is causing the fault, the data we are observing is incomprehensible and our usual tried-and-true testing reveals little or no guidance.
I was recently called to a shop for a job that required strict adherence to a diagnostic strategy or else a lot of time could have been wasted on my part. I’ll review the steps I used to diagnose a 2005 Hyundai GX350.
The first step to diagnosing any parasitic draw starts with what’s being drawn down to begin with — the battery. I think more than any other component, the battery is the most overlooked item when it comes to testing for a parasitic drain.
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